Brussels, Belgium in 24 Hours

Any time we told people we were stopping in Brussels on our trip they would almost always ask “why?”. To be honest, we didn’t really have a reason other than it is about halfway between Paris and Amsterdam and would give us another country to check off the list. So we booked the cutest AirBnb within walking distance of the Grand Place for two nights in Brussels (though we only spent about 24 hours here total) and rode the train up from Paris.

This was my first real train ride! I’ve been on the Subway, the L, the BART, etc…but that’s not quite the same. I had a hard time not feeling like I was on Platform 9 3/4 headed to Hogwarts and really tried to play it cool, but I’m not sure I was fooling anyone. The train itself had a bar, free WIFI, outlets and you could bring any of your own snacks or drinks on board. A one way ticket was about $60 and only 90 minutes (oh and youth rates in Europe are good up until age 25). And even better: security was a breeze! Basically it was everything you wish airports and flights could be. I would be traveling by train everywhere if I lived here!

It was a rainy arrival into Brussels, but hey…that’s why we brought umbrellas. We dragged our suitcases over bumpy cobblestone streets and made it to our AirBnb without a problem. The problem came when we were faced with five VERY steep flights of stairs. We had been bundled up in coats and scarves from outside but had to start taking off layers as we got to each new floor because we were so hot. This was our workout for the week! It all paid off when we opened the door to an adorable apartment we called our “Ikea Home”. It was very modern and European, not a lot of frills and small square footage…but open and airy and so so cute!! I would recommend it to anyone coming to Brussels.

WHAT TO DO

We really only had 2 half days to spend in Brussels. Our full day in Belgium we took a train over to the medieval town of Brugge (more on that later) leaving us with minimal time in the capital city. So we did what we do best…wander and eat! With such limited time in Brussels, we spent most of it just walking around the central part of the city. What was really enjoyable is that a few blocks all around the Grand Place are pedestrian only, so no dodging traffic! It made sense, because those cobblestones were no joke. I think the worst roads of the trip were in downtown Brussels!

The Grand Place (or Grand Square) is the main central square in Brussels and no pictures can do it justice. The buildings are so wide and so tall, it’s impossible to get the entire square in one shot. Go to GoogleMaps and drop yourself down in the center of it to really see what I mean. The largest building is the Town Hall, built in the 1400’s, and across the square is the King’s House built in the 1500’s.. The remaining buildings are medieval guild houses, elaborately designed and absolutely stunning to look at.

Just off of the Grand Place is the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, a shopping center built in the late 1800’s. Though to be fair, saying “shopping center” is not an accurate description. The gallery has a long courtyard with a glass domed roof, allowing the restaurants to have “outdoor” seating year round, beautiful ornate arches and facades for each store front and symmetrical columns all the way down. It is currently on the list of potential future UNESCO heritage sights and worth a walk through if you have time. While I’m not a big shopper, I did really enjoy the chocolate shops, watching the chocolatiers work on Easter baskets. We also stopped at Le Pain Quotidien, a french bakery, for some coffee and pastries before taking our next train.

What To Eat

Fries
When it came to Belgium, I really only associated it with chocolate and waffles. But did you know the French fry originated in Belgium? Yep, it’s true! (also don’t call it a “French” fry in Belgium, they are pretty annoyed France stole their potato). Naturally a basket of fries was our first order of business. If you know me at all, I’m a self proclaimed fry connoisseur. I love fries but am a little picky about them. (What can I say, I’m from Idaho!) Needless to say my expectations were high. I’m pleased to report though that Belgian fries are AMAZING!! Piping hot out of the fryer, thick cut (as all fries should be) that are crunchy on the outside but soft in the middle and perfectly salted. They are hands down my favorite fries. Ever!! Traditionally Belgian fries are dipped in mayo, but as a condiment hater I stuck with eating mine plain and they were still incredible. Ugh…now I want fries…

Waffles
While I definitely could have eaten Belgian fries for every meal, I also knew I had to try a waffle. I hate to sound like a broken record, but these were amazing too!! Someone suggested trying a plain sugared waffle first, to get the true flavor of the waffles, but there were so many toppings to choose from we just had to get one smothered in chocolate. How do the people of Belgium not all weigh 500 pounds??

Le Roy D’Espagne
By this point in the trip, we had eaten bread and pastries for every breakfast. And while I love dessert for breakfast, we were both craving something more substantial. A big difference we noticed all throughout Europe is people aren’t up and moving early like we are in the US. If you were wandering the city at 8am, the only things open are bakeries, hence the nonstop pastry eating. We stumbled upon this restaurant which directly overlooks the Grand Place and while it is definitely touristy, it opened at 8am and was everything we wanted! Huge, fluffy, oven baked omelets and big cups of coffee…what more could you need in the morning? It looked like a really fun spot to have a drink on the patio if you visit during nicer weather, too.

The most fun we had in Brussels came when we discovered a Boise coworker’s brother lived in Brussels and was willing to show us around for the evening! While most locals we encountered spoke English, Belgium actually has 3 official languages (French, Dutch and German). Jack, our tour guide, spoke all three so it was great to let him order for us and not feel like such tourists saying “sorry, only English” over and over.

Amadeus
When Jack suggested we meet at an all you can eat rib joint, we were a little skeptical. I mean, did we really fly across the world to eat BBQ in another country? On the other hand…who doesn’t love ribs. We trusted his judgment and were so glad we did. The restaurant has an old southern feel, with red checkered tablecloths and books lining the walls. While the ribs weren’t the most amazing we have ever had, the atmosphere is what makes the place so fun. The ribs are all you can eat, with waiters passing out more as you go along. My personal favorite though was the wine. They set a big jug of house wine on the table and you pour yourself whatever you want! Then at the end they measure how much is left in the bottle and you pay by the centimeter. Your glass is always full, your plate is never empty…it was a really fun experience.

Publico
We still wanted to have a bit of traditional Belgian food, so our second night we ate at Publico. This restaurant specializes in “comfort food” and making you feel at home, even if you are away from home. We started with a few different tapas (a Spanish olive platter and parmesan croquettes) then for the main course I went with the Flemish Stew and Matt had a traditional Brussels Stoemp, which is mashed potatoes and root vegetables with sausage. Belgian food is very heavy, but as it was so dreary and cold it was perfect!

Delirium
If you’re looking for a drink, Delirium Cafe is the place to go. They hold the world record for largest beer selection (over 2000!) and I won’t lie, it was a little overwhelming. This was when we were REALLY glad to have a local to order for us. There are several of Delirium’s own beers to choose from (which I have surprisingly seen at a few different places here in the Northwest), then there are the famous Trappist beers that are brewed by Trappist monks and only about a dozen monasteries in the WORLD do this, but my personal favorite were the Lambics. If I understand correctly, these beers are fermented by wild yeast as opposed to brewer’s yeast, giving the beer a more dry and sour taste. Sure the beer is pink, so you may look a little girly ordering one and the Kriek Lambic I loved (kriek = sour cherry) some said tasted a little like cough syrup, but I highly recommend trying one if you get the chance! Especially if you like sour or fruity beers.

And that was it! Would we ever go back to Brussels? Probably not. But was it worth seeing? Absolutely. I might have to stop in Belgium again someday just for the fries! We spent one day in the medieval town of Brugge, then next stop: Amsterdam!

~Stephanie